Namagusa-Koko (Daikon Pickled in Salted Sardine Liquid)

Namagusa-Koko (Daikon Pickled in Salted Sardine Liquid)

Quick answer

Total time
Approx. 210 days
Level
Hard
Yield
1 batch
Ingredients
7

About this dish

Sardines salted in spring sit through the summer, then are cooked down in late autumn into a thick liquid that pickles whole daikon.

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Spanning two seasons, this Kakudahama, Niigata tradition is closer to a yearly project than a quick pickle. The radish stays firm but takes on the strong salt and smell of fermented fish. It is sliced thin and eaten with rice a little at a time. The makers use shirokubi daikon, and bottled fish sauce does not stand in for the brine the spring cure produces. A ventilated space for handling and cooking fish, a large barrel and heavy weights matter as much as the ingredients.

Ingredients

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Instructions

8 steps
  1. 1

    Begin in spring with 100 very fresh sardines and 1.8 L salt measured by volume.

    Remove the heads and carefully draw out the innards without slitting the bellies lengthwise. In this documented method, the cleaned fish are salted without rinsing in water.

  2. 2

    Coat the fish with part of the measured salt.

    Pack them closely in a radial arrangement in the pickling barrel, fill the gaps with the remaining salt and cover the top. Use all the measured salt in these stages. Leave at room temperature for 2 to 3 days for the salt to penetrate.

  3. 3

    Add a weight of about 10 kg and cover the barrel.

    Keep it in a dark, ventilated place at ambient temperature from spring until late autumn or early winter, a period of at least half a year. Retain the liquid that develops. The first 2 to 3 days are part of this maturation period.

  4. 4

    In late autumn or early winter, transfer the matured sardines to a large pot.

    Add enough water to just cover them and a little of the brine from the barrel. Bring to a simmer, stirring.

  5. 5

    When the fish start losing their original shape, add a small amount of sake and bonito dashi granules.

    Continue cooking and stirring for about 3 hours in total, until the mixture becomes a thick liquid, then remove from the heat and let the strongest heat subside.

  6. 6

    Wash soil off the shirokubi daikon, remove the leaves and cut the roots into sections about 15 cm long.

    Weigh the daikon being used and pack it into the pickling barrel. Use only as much daikon as the prepared sardine mixture can cover completely.

  7. 7

    Pour in the sardine mixture after its strongest heat has subsided, covering all the daikon.

    Add a weight equal to twice the daikon weight and keep it in a cool, dark place for about a month. Keep the radish below the liquid.

  8. 8

    From about one month onward, remove a portion, slice it thinly and serve a small amount with rice.

    If it tastes strongly salty, serve a smaller portion. Do not add an unmeasured amount of water to the stored barrel to dilute its salt concentration.

References checked

These references were consulted when this page was prepared or corrected. A source check does not mean the recipe was independently kitchen-tested.

Tips

One Japanese sho is a volume of 1.8 L. Salt density varies, so do not replace the volume measurement with 1,800 g. Fish size also varies; the fish-count ratio does not establish a precise salt percentage by weight.
A little of the brine produced during the spring cure is used in the autumn cooking stage. This is not a formula for substituting the same volume of bottled fish sauce. The sake and dashi remain small amounts as recorded by the makers.
The displayed time is a planning estimate of roughly 7 months, combining at least half a year for the fish and about a month for the daikon. It uses 30 days per month and includes about 2 hours of handling plus 3 hours of cooking. The actual schedule depends on the spring catch and autumn daikon harvest and may be longer.
Edited by Charim Team