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Pancetta, garlic, and Parmigiano Reggiano season this savory Italian pie, whose filling is 600 g of chard blanched, squeezed hard, and packed between two thin sheets of dough. Water left in the chard soaks the thin bottom crust, so the leaves are wrung out thoroughly and the cooked filling is cooled before it is spread on the dough.
Swiss chard leaves are thicker and tougher than spinach, so they don't go limp even after sitting in their dressing for a while. The dressing is doenjang (Korean soybean paste), finished with ground perilla seed and perilla oil for a thick, nutty coating.
Through the doenjang-fried pork comes the faintly earthy smell of Swiss chard. The leaves go limp as they cool, so it is eaten straight from the pan, spooned over rice.
Swiss chard has more chew than spinach and a slight bitterness in the leaf, which sits well in a nutty doenjang broth. Korean families make it most in spring and autumn when chard is around; out of season, frozen chard gives much the same broth.
Swiss chard has two textures in one leaf: thick, crunchy stems and soft greens that wilt fast. The stems go into the brine first and the leaves join later; salted together, the leaves turn mushy before the stems are seasoned. Firm, thick-stemmed bunches keep their crunch longest after salting. The paste is built on cooled glutinous rice porridge with plum syrup for a soft sweetness, and half a day on the counter before chilling helps it ripen.
Wilted chard, leaves and stems both, gets folded into thick Greek yogurt with garlic, then olive oil warmed with chili flakes is drizzled across the top in a red streak. It is served cold, as part of a Turkish meze spread. Only half the minced garlic is cooked with the onion, while the rest stays raw in the yogurt, where its sharp edge survives. Most watery borani comes from mixing the chard while it still holds heat, which pulls liquid out into the sauce. A low-moisture strained yogurt keeps the coating thick for the same reason. Done right, the plate holds no loose water, and the cool yogurt and warm chili oil stay distinct.