Korean Zucchini Soybean Paste Soup

Not a dish for special occasions - this is what gets made on ordinary weeknights when nothing more specific has been decided. Anchovy-kelp stock is the base: dried anchovies and a piece of kombu in cold water, brought to a boil and simmered ten minutes. Doenjang dissolved through a strainer into the finished stock adds the fermented, earthy depth that defines the soup. Onion goes in first and sweetens the broth as it softens. Zucchini, sliced into half-moons, follows with minced garlic, cooking for five minutes at most - past that point the slices lose their shape and the broth becomes murky. Cubed tofu is added last, just to warm through without breaking. The result is a cloudy, golden soup where the salty funk of the doenjang sits underneath a gentle vegetable sweetness. A sliced cheongyang chili makes it spicy; left out, the soup is mild enough for any table.