Busan Milmyeon (Korean Cold Wheat Noodles)

The broth is made by simmering beef bones for a long time, then chilling it until the solidified fat can be skimmed cleanly from the surface, which produces a clear, lean broth that is savory without being heavy. A mound of spicy-sweet chili paste placed on top of the noodles introduces a sharp kick that cuts through the cold and stimulates appetite even on the most sweltering days. The noodles are softer and more yielding than the buckwheat strands used in pyongyang-style naengmyeon, and they absorb the beefy broth with each bite. Cutting the noodles with scissors and alternating between sips of cold broth and bites of dressed noodles is the local eating ritual that distinguishes milmyeon from other cold noodle dishes. Half a boiled egg and thin cucumber slices form the standard garnish, and a splash of vinegar and a dab of mustard on the table allow each diner to adjust the flavor balance to taste. The dish traces its origin to the wartime period of the early 1950s, when refugees displaced to Busan during the Korean War began making cold noodles with wheat flour as a substitute for the buckwheat they could no longer obtain from the north.