Caponata (Sicilian Sweet and Sour Eggplant Stew)

Diced eggplant is fried in generous amounts of olive oil until the edges color and the interior becomes silky, having absorbed enough fat to create a soft, yielding texture. Celery, added later and cooked only briefly, stays crisp throughout, providing a textural contrast that keeps the dish from becoming uniformly soft. Tomatoes, capers, and green olives go in together, forming the braising base into which the fried eggplant is returned and simmered until the liquid thickens. Red wine vinegar and sugar are stirred in at the end and adjusted to taste - the vinegar should be assertive but not sharp, the sugar present but not sweet. The briny depth from the olives and capers layers over the tomato acidity, producing a complexity that would seem to require more ingredients than it actually does. Like most braises and marinades, caponata is considerably better after an overnight rest in the refrigerator, when the separate flavors meld into a unified whole. Serve at room temperature on toasted bread as an antipasto, or alongside grilled meat or fish as a condiment.