Chocolate Chip Cookies

The ratio of brown sugar to granulated white sugar is the single most important decision: more brown sugar introduces molasses, which is hygroscopic and holds moisture in the finished cookie, producing a chewy, dense texture; more white sugar encourages the dough to spread in the oven and crisps the edges. Creaming softened butter with the sugars until the mixture turns pale and fluffy incorporates air into the dough, which gives the baked cookie lift and a slightly cakey interior. Chocolate chips, whether semi-sweet, dark, or a mixture, melt during baking and spread into the surrounding dough before re-solidifying as the cookie cools, forming pockets of concentrated chocolate distributed unevenly through each cookie. The moment to pull the tray from the oven is when the edges have set and turned golden while the center still appears underdone and almost raw-looking, because the residual heat of the pan continues to cook the interior as the cookies rest and cool. Pressing flaky sea salt into the surface of each cookie just before baking sharpens all the flavors, making the chocolate taste more chocolatey and the butter taste more buttery. Eaten warm, within minutes of coming out of the oven, a good chocolate chip cookie barely holds together and melts at the edges with the slightest pressure. That fragile, yielding moment is the whole point.