Korean Stir-fried Pumpkin Leaves and Shrimp

Blanching the leaves before anything else goes into the pan is not optional. The coarse, fuzzy surface that characterizes raw pumpkin leaves softens through the brief heat exposure, but the leaf itself retains enough structure so that it does not collapse into a slippery, formless mass when it hits the hot pan. The mild, grassy aroma that defines the vegetable comes through intact after the blanching step. Shrimp brings a clean, oceanic savory quality that pairs well with the herbaceous character of the leaves rather than overwhelming it. Perilla oil holds the two together with its distinctively nutty and faintly herbal fragrance, which complements both the sea-forward shrimp and the green quality of the pumpkin leaves in a way that plain vegetable oil would not. A sliced cheongyang chili pepper adds a thread of gentle heat that keeps the dish from tasting flat without pushing the spice level high enough to obscure the delicate flavors of the main ingredients. Clam meat or finely minced pork can substitute for the shrimp, each producing a different but equally satisfying version. This is a seasonal dish that depends on pumpkin leaves at their youngest and most tender, which occurs in summer. Larger, older leaves are tougher and more fibrous, and the flavor is less delicate. After blanching, the leaves need to be squeezed thoroughly to remove excess water before they go into the pan. Skipping this step causes steam to build as they hit the hot oil, which leads to uneven cooking and a watery, diluted finish. Spooning the finished stir-fry over a bowl of hot rice and mixing it in is the most direct way to eat the dish well.