Thai Fried Rice

Freshly steamed rice retains too much moisture and clumps together in the wok, steaming rather than frying and resulting in a heavy, gummy texture. Cold rice separates easily under the heat, allowing the individual grains to coat in oil and achieve the distinct, lightly chewy texture that defines good khao pad. The wok is heated until it smokes before garlic goes in, building a fragrant base in seconds. Eggs are scrambled into large, soft curds alongside the garlic before the rice is added and tossed vigorously with fish sauce, soy sauce, and a small pinch of sugar, which rounds the saltiness into something rounder and more complex. The most important quality that separates a superior khao pad from a mediocre version is wok hei: the faint, smoky breath that comes from sustained contact between the ingredients and a very hot wok surface. A plate of khao pad is always accompanied by a lime wedge, sliced cucumber, and chopped scallion. In its simplest form it needs no protein, but shrimp, chicken, or crab are common and equally traditional additions.