Thai Chicken Fried Rice

Bite-size pieces of chicken breast or thigh are seared first in a ripping-hot wok to develop color and a slight char, then minced garlic and a cracked egg follow in rapid succession. Day-old jasmine rice, cold from the refrigerator, is added next because its reduced moisture allows each grain to separate cleanly and pick up oil rather than clumping. Constant tossing over the highest possible heat is what produces the characteristic wok fragrance that sets Thai fried rice apart from versions cooked at lower temperatures. Fish sauce provides the primary saltiness, soy sauce adds a brown color and a layer of savory depth, and white pepper delivers a warm, earthy heat that lingers in the background. The mound of finished rice is tipped onto a plate and surrounded by a lime wedge, cucumber slices, and tomato to provide cool, acidic relief between bites. At the table, diners season their own portion from a small tray holding fish sauce, dried chili flakes, white sugar, and vinegar - the standard four-condiment set present at virtually every Thai table. The combination of all these adjustments makes a single dish capable of tasting quite different from person to person, which is part of its enduring appeal.