Khua Kling (Southern Thai Dry-Fried Spiced Minced Pork Curry)

The paste goes into a dry, preheated pan first, and it fries in its own aromatic oils until the raw edge is gone and the kitchen fills with its fragrance. Ground pork is then added and the cook stirs without pause, working the meat against the hot surface and driving off all moisture until each grain of meat is separate, dry, and coated in a concentrated layer of spice. Fish sauce brings salt, a small measure of sugar tempers the raw heat, and finely shredded kaffir lime leaves push a bright citrus fragrance through the heavy chili and shrimp paste base. Extra sliced red chilies are standard in the southern version, and the heat level here far exceeds what most central Thai dishes offer. There is no sauce at all in the finished dish: the texture is crumbly and almost granular, which is precisely the point. A single spoonful carries enough concentrated flavor to carry several bites of plain steamed rice. The dish is best served immediately off the heat, while the aromatics are still vivid and the meat still steaming.