Udon with Seasoned Fried Tofu

The aburaage is blanched first in boiling water to remove the excess oil that would otherwise cloud the broth and repel the seasoning, then braised in a mixture of water, soy sauce, mirin, and sugar for about six minutes until the liquid has been absorbed and the sweetness has penetrated to the center of each pouch. The broth is built separately from a stock of katsuobushi and kombu, seasoned with soy sauce, mirin, and just enough salt to round out the flavor without making it salty. The quality of this broth is the single most important factor in the finished bowl. Frozen udon noodles are warmed in boiling water for about two minutes, just long enough to loosen and heat through without losing their elastic, springy texture, then transferred to the bowl with the broth ladled over. The simmered tofu pouch sits on top, and as you eat, it releases its sweetened liquid gradually into the surrounding broth, shifting the flavor of the soup with each bite. Sliced scallion and a pinch of shichimi togarashi finish the bowl with fresh aroma and gentle heat. The tofu benefits from being prepared a day in advance, as resting overnight deepens the braising flavor throughout.