Korean Yeolmu Bibim Guksu

Cut the kimchi into 3 to 4 cm pieces and measure 2 tablespoons of its brine before the noodles are cooked. Stir the brine with 1.5 tablespoons gochujang, 1 tablespoon vinegar, and 1 tablespoon sugar until no sugar crystals remain. Bring a generous pot of water to a full boil, add the somyeon, and cook for 3 minutes over medium-high heat. Separate the thin strands with chopsticks during the first 30 seconds so they do not set into a clump. Move the cooked noodles immediately into cold water and rub them gently through several rinses to remove the surface starch. Drain until they feel cold and slick and no excess water runs from the sieve, because retained water would dilute the dressing. Toss the noodles with the dressing first so the red color reaches every strand. Fold in only half of the yeolmu kimchi without pressing on its crisp stems. Place the noodles in bowls, top them with the remaining kimchi and julienned cucumber, then add 1 teaspoon each of sesame oil and sesame seeds. Serve while the noodles are smooth, the radish greens still crunch, and the sauce stays on the strands without a watery puddle in the bowl.