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Flounder is thin-fleshed and mild, so salt and rice wine are all the seasoning it gets. The surface has to be patted completely dry before it goes into the pan, or the skin will not crisp.
On Korea's east coast, seaweed soup for new mothers is sometimes made with a whole flounder instead of beef. The seaweed is stir-fried in sesame oil before the water is poured in, and the flounder, blanched briefly to take away any fishiness, joins it whole, seasoned with soy sauce and garlic.
Steaming instead of braising keeps this flounder milder and moister than the spicy simmered versions. The fish sits on sliced onion in a rimmed heatproof dish, where the soy sauce, rice wine and juices from the fish collect underneath as a ready-made sauce.
Shallow scores on both sides of the flounder let the chili broth seep in, so even this thin fish is evenly seasoned. When the flesh turns white and flakes easily, it is served with the radish and plenty of the red broth.
Gochugaru and fresh cheongyang chili together make the broth properly hot. The radish is already half cooked when the flounder goes on top, and it ends up absorbing the fat that seeps from the fish as well as the seasoning.