Go-ae (Eggplant with Crushed Edamame Dressing)

Boiled edamame is crushed into a thick soybean dressing called go, seasoned with sugar, miso, and dashi, then folded around briefly cooked, firmly squeezed eggplant and fine strips of myoga. When young soybeans are in season, the dressing has a vivid green color that contrasts with the soft eggplant and crisp aromatic myoga. In mountainous Nichinan, where arable land was limited, soybeans were an important source of protein, and households used ground boiled beans to coat vegetables or mushrooms. The eggplant may be boiled, grilled, or microwaved, but it must always be pressed dry so the bean dressing remains dense rather than watery. Served cool, the mild soybean richness makes a gentle summer side dish for rice.