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Dried persimmon and cinnamon are already a familiar pair in Korea through sujeonggwa, a cinnamon punch traditionally served with dried persimmon. Here chopped gotgam (dried persimmon) is rolled up with cinnamon sugar, and it runs along the spiral of every slice and pulls apart chewy and jammy. The rolls come out as soon as the edges turn golden; any longer and the fruit dries out again.
Dried persimmons are split along one side, opened flat, and rolled around cream cheese mixed with honey and lemon juice, plus coarsely chopped walnuts. After 20 minutes wrapped in the fridge, each slice shows a round of white cream and walnut inside the chewy fruit. If the persimmons have dried hard, five minutes in a damp paper towel keeps them from tearing as they are opened.
The dried persimmons go in only for the last eight to ten minutes, and in that time they fall apart, thickening the tea slightly and giving it a jammy sweetness. Their sugar content varies a lot, and very sweet ones can take as little as 20g of dark brown sugar. The strained, reddish-brown tea is topped with a spoonful of walnuts. On holiday tables it sometimes sits beside sujeonggwa.
Dried persimmon cut into rounds shows a chewy, almost jammy center that contrasts with soft spoonfuls of ricotta. Bitter chicory and peppery arugula balance its concentrated sweetness, and walnuts and pine nuts toasted in a dry pan add a warm, nutty smell. When the persimmon is especially sweet, a little more balsamic vinegar brings the plate back into balance.
Sujeonggwa, the Korean cinnamon-ginger punch sweetened with dark brown sugar, is frozen in a tray and raked with a fork into icy crystals that each carry a clear hit of spice. Leave too long between scrapes and it sets into a solid slab, which is why the raking continues at steady intervals after the first pass. Thin strips of dried persimmon and pine nuts on top are the same garnish traditionally floated in the drink.
It needs a night in the fridge, about twelve hours, so make it the day before. Cinnamon sticks and ginger go down to low heat with the lid on as soon as the water boils; a hard boil makes the punch bitter. The dried persimmon is not added ahead of time but floated in each cup, where it soaks up the punch and softens as you drink.
Dried persimmon brings a concentrated, mellow sweetness that spreads into the sweet vinegar, softening a daikon and carrot namasu. In Shimane it is set out for celebrations and New Year, with the red of persimmon and carrot and the white of daikon read as the auspicious pairing of red and white. The vegetables soak in salt water only until they bend without snapping, so they keep a light crunch.