217 recipes. Page 9 of 10
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Several beef offal cuts with very different chews, such as small intestine and omasum, go into one pot of milky bone broth. Chili flakes and garlic make it spicy, and half a spoonful of doenjang mixed into the seasoning paste tamps down any remaining offal smell. It is a hot pot for the drinking table, alongside soju.
The roots of shepherd's purse carry an earthy, mineral smell and the leaves a mild bitterness. Cutting both and mixing them evenly before cooking spreads each flavor through the pot. Pressing the doenjang through a sieve keeps the anchovy stock clear while still giving it fermented depth.
There is a spoonful of doenjang, but only as a base seasoning, and this tastes more like a clear beef soup made with brisket browned in sesame oil than a doenjang soup. Spring shepherd's purse brings an earthy green scent into the meaty broth.
Whole loaches are boiled until the bones soften, ground, and pushed through a sieve, and the resulting broth clings heavily to the spoon. Radish greens tossed in doenjang and some perilla powder go in too, and ground sancho pepper is sprinkled on a little at a time just before eating.
Natto is ground in a mortar until no whole beans are left, then stirred into miso soup, and the broth turns softly thick with the fermented aroma spread evenly through it. It is a Yamagata winter home dish from a season when fresh food was scarce, made with stored foods like dried taro stems (imogara) and salted mountain vegetables. In some areas it was also served at New Year, for Nanakusa, or at Daikoku-sama observances.
Olgaengi is what people in Chungcheong Province call the small freshwater snails known elsewhere in Korea as daseulgi. Their tiny meat cooks with mallow leaves in a doenjang broth, and a spoonful of ground perilla seed leaves it slightly thick.
You pick the meat off the pork back bones in your bowl as you go, between spoonfuls of cloudy broth and napa greens soaked in doenjang seasoning. What decides the broth is pouring away the first blanching water, where the scum and porky smell collect.
With the ox bone broth made ahead, the work here is in the napa outer leaves (ugeoji). Blanched leaves are rubbed through with doenjang, chili flakes, garlic and perilla oil, then stir-fried in the pot for three minutes to bring up the doenjang aroma before the broth goes in.
Once the doenjang-coated napa greens and bean sprouts have simmered and the broth has turned savory and cloudy, the large pieces of ox blood curd (seonji) are slid in at the edge of the pot. A deep stir with the ladle breaks them apart.
Spinach brings a faint bitterness to the doenjang broth, and the wilted leaves leave it tinged a pale green.
Fat from the pork shoulder soaks into radish greens already rubbed with doenjang, and the broth turns heavy and reddish brown. It tastes deeper still after cooling once and reheating.
No meat goes into this one, only dried radish greens, doenjang and anchovy stock. Drying leaves the greens slightly bitter, and that bitterness stays in the pot on purpose. Strip it all out and the soup stops tasting like siraegi-guk.
The brisket is patted dry before it meets the perilla oil. Wet meat tastes boiled instead of toasty, and the radish greens then go into that same oil. That step is where the soup's nutty depth comes from.
One ink sac, loosened in two ladles of broth, turns the miso soup nearly black. In Amami, Kagoshima, bigfin reef squid is called mizuika and its ink sac mada. These large, translucent squid are caught in Amami's waters all year.
Young mugwort gives a doenjang broth a fresh, green spring aroma, but that aroma fades quickly with heat. The clam meat is cooked through first, so the leaves can be added last over low heat and ladled out the moment they wilt to a bright green.
Half a spoonful of doenjang in the chili paste keeps the heat from turning sharp. The sundae sits on cabbage and onion and simmers at the table; the broth grows stronger as it reduces, and the flame comes down as you eat, with the perilla leaves added last.
Leaving a little of the purple skin on the turnip gives the doenjang broth a soft tint. Turnip is more delicately sweet than Korean radish, with a faint peppery edge, and the soup tastes different from a radish version because of it. Turnips are in season from autumn into early winter.
Everything left after filleting a cod, from the head, backbone and skin to the liver, roe or milt, goes into one big pot here. Jappa means scraps in the Tsugaru dialect of Aomori, yet these parts make a full-bodied winter miso soup. Liver mashed into the broth near the end gives it a soft richness, and fresh milt is treated as a prize. In Tsugaru cod was the fish for welcoming the New Year; families bought a whole large one at year's end and dragged it home over snowy roads, which gave rise to the phrase tara shogatsu, cod New Year.
Flattened into flower-like discs, the soybeans cook faster than whole beans, take seasoning right to the center and release a nutty body into the broth. The method grew from storing winter protein in snowy northern Shiga, and the soup is often served as oko-jiru at Buddhist Hoonko gatherings.
Doenjang stirred into rice-rinsing water gives this soup a softer, rounder broth. The tough outer napa leaves (ugeoji) simmer until they hang limp from a spoon, and a little cheongyang chili at the end leaves a sharp kick.
Napa outer leaves (ugeoji) tossed with doenjang go into the broth from boiled beef brisket along with soybean sprouts, and the brisket itself is torn along the grain and returned to the pot. A little chili flake brings mild heat over the doenjang, and the heat goes off while the sprouts still crunch.
The broth is a ruddy brown, nutty from doenjang and spicy from chili flakes. The outer cabbage leaves (ugeoji) soak it up the longer they simmer, so each soft spoonful of greens comes up full of seasoned broth.
Dongara refers to the head and bony trimmings of the cod. In the Shonai area of Yamagata, spawning cod goes into one pot from flesh to liver to milt or roe, and the liver melts into the miso broth, making it rich and savory. At home it is made from a cod hot-pot set cleaned by a fishmonger, with the gallbladder, gills and intestines already removed.
Chewy beef tripe, soft blood curd and soybean sprouts share a doenjang-seasoned bone broth, and the bowl is heavy with them. The green onion and chili oil wait until after the 20-minute simmer, leaving the red oil floating on top.