Recipes with coarse salt

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Atama Ryori (Blanched Large Fish Head and Offal Platter)
Asian Hard

Atama Ryori (Blanched Large Fish Head and Offal Platter)

Cheek meat, fin meat, skin, stomach, liver and roe from one large white-fleshed fish are each blanched or boiled separately, then arranged together on a big platter with seasonal vegetables such as cucumber. This feast dish comes from Taketa in Oita Prefecture, where large sea fish were scarce and nothing from one was wasted. Kabosu, a tart Oita citrus, is squeezed into vinegar-soy sauce for dipping, and each part brings its own texture in turn. Each part needs its own cooking time, which is why nothing shares a pot.

Prep 120min Cook 90min 12 servings
Korean Steamed Octopus (Whole Salted Radish Broth)
Steamed Medium

Korean Steamed Octopus (Whole Salted Radish Broth)

Holding the whole octopus by the head and dipping it into boiling water two or three times makes the legs curl inward into a neat shape for slicing and serving. Before that, coarse salt is rubbed firmly between the suckers to strip the slime; without that step an off smell lingers after cooking. It cooks for only about 15 minutes over a bed of radish and green onion, then rests under the lid, which keeps it chewy without turning tough. The water is kept at a quiet simmer the whole time, since a rolling, splashing boil makes octopus tougher. Instead of a spicy dipping sauce, slices are dipped in sesame oil mixed with salt, letting the octopus taste of the sea, and the plate works just as well with drinks.

🍺 Bar Snacks
Prep 20min Cook 25min 4 servings
Korean Napa Cabbage Kimchi
Kimchi Medium

Korean Napa Cabbage Kimchi

Salting decides the texture of this napa cabbage kimchi: under-salted leaves weep liquid and turn mushy during fermentation, while over-salted ones bury the seasoning. Blooming the gochugaru in sweet rice paste before the fish sauce goes in gives a heavy paste that clings to each leaf instead of sliding off. Spread it thinly between the layers, since too much filling makes the kimchi salty and soft. Fresh-tasting at first, it grows deeper and tangier after about a week, and well-soured kimchi is the one to use for kimchi-jjigae or stir-fried kimchi.

Prep 50min 0 4 servings
Cheongyang Chili Carbonara Spaghetti
Pasta Medium

Cheongyang Chili Carbonara Spaghetti

Cheongyang chili, a sharp Korean green pepper, cuts through a classic cream-free carbonara of egg yolks, Parmigiano, and Pecorino, leaving a cleaner, brighter finish. Sliced chili and garlic fry for just 30 seconds in the rendered pancetta fat, long enough for the heat to spread through the oil but short of scorching the garlic. That oil then emulsifies with the cheese and egg base, and the starch and salt in the pasta water help the sauce coat each strand evenly. Grating the cheese finely ahead of time keeps the sauce smooth. The usual failure is a pan that is still too hot: the yolks scramble instead of turning silky, so the heat is cut and the pan rests a few seconds before the eggs are added.

Prep 10min Cook 18min 2 servings
Iwashi no Unohana-zuke (Vinegared Sardines with Okara)
Asian Hard

Iwashi no Unohana-zuke (Vinegared Sardines with Okara)

Small sardines cured first in salt and then in vinegar are opened flat and filled with sweet-sour okara, the soybean pulp left from tofu making, with a thin coat on the skin side too. The okara, cooked dry with carrot and dried chili and then brightened with yuzu zest and juice, comes across soft, citrusy, and tangy against the firm, vinegared fish. This Ibaraki dish is eaten the day it is made, and only sardines sold for raw eating after commercial freezing will do, since salt and vinegar do not kill anisakis.

Prep 35min Cook 12min 4 servings
Korean White Kimchi (Non-Spicy Napa Pear Fermented)
Kimchi Medium

Korean White Kimchi (Non-Spicy Napa Pear Fermented)

With no gochugaru at all, this white kimchi is mild, and its clear brine is eaten along with the cabbage. Pear, radish, garlic and ginger carry the flavor instead, and the pear adds sweetness while softening the fermented smell. The filling is tossed lightly with fingertips, because rough handling bruises the radish and pear strips, and everything is drained well to keep the brine from clouding. After half a day at room temperature it ferments slowly in the fridge for 2 to 3 weeks, until the liquid tastes clean, cool and gently sour, a good foil for fatty meat.

Prep 50min Cook 20min 4 servings
Shime Saba (Vinegar-Cured Mackerel)
Side dishes Hard

Shime Saba (Vinegar-Cured Mackerel)

Salt first, vinegar second: the salt draws water out of the mackerel and firms it, and a short soak in rice vinegar with kombu turns the surface white while the center stays pink and rich. That pink center is how shime saba should look, which also means the fish is essentially raw. Vinegar and salt do not kill anisakis, so the recipe only works with fillets sold for raw eating with a parasite-control freezing history. Kept at 4°C or below from thawing to serving, it is eaten the day it is made, with perilla leaves and shredded ginger on the side.

🏠 Everyday
Prep 25min Cook 75min 2 servings
Beet Kimchi
Kimchi Medium

Beet Kimchi

Beets cut into 2 cm cubes get dressed like kkakdugi, the cubed radish kimchi, but this batch is eaten fresh rather than fermented. Whatever is not served right away goes into a lidded container and straight into the fridge at 4°C or below rather than sitting out at room temperature. A kimchi meant for long fermentation needs its own tested ratios and instructions, not this one. The salted cubes are drained well first, because any water they carry thins the paste.

Prep 50min Cook 10min 4 servings
Beet Water Kimchi
Kimchi Medium

Beet Water Kimchi

Even a small amount of beet stains the broth red. The radish portion is kept the larger one, since a jar where beet outweighs radish turns muddy and dark. Both are cut into the same thin, flat pieces so a spoonful picks up some of each. The liquid drawn out during salting is added to the jar rather than poured away. Pear juice brings sweetness, sliced garlic and ginger bring aroma, and a cooled rice-flour porridge gives the broth body. A good stir after adding the salt water keeps that porridge from settling on the bottom. It sits out for a day before moving to the fridge.

At least 1 day 30 min 4 servings
Korean Stuffed Bossam Kimchi
Kimchi Hard

Korean Stuffed Bossam Kimchi

Bo-kimchi wraps a filling of julienned radish, Korean pear, chestnuts, and blanched octopus in brined napa cabbage leaves, then ferments the bundles. After brining, check that the thick cabbage stems bend without snapping, and drain the rinsed leaves well, because wet leaves leave a watery pool inside each parcel. Overlap two large leaves so the filling is enclosed without gaps, and pack the bundles seam side down so they stay closed while they ferment. Blanch the octopus only briefly, since longer cooking makes it tough.

At least 3 days 17 hr 4 servings
Korean Chamnamul Kimchi (Pimpinella Kimchi)
Kimchi Medium

Korean Chamnamul Kimchi (Pimpinella Kimchi)

Chamnamul greens are salted for just 10 minutes and dressed without rinsing, letting the leftover salt season them. A gentle squeeze is enough, since wringing bruises the tender leaves and makes them slump during fermentation. Blended Korean pear and onion in the sweet rice paste round off the chili heat. With so much moisture in the greens, fermentation moves fast and the kimchi softens if kept too long. Small batches eaten within a few days work best.

Prep 30min Cook 5min 4 servings