Korean Octopus Soft Tofu Stew
Springy pieces of octopus (nakji) turn up between soft curds of tofu. The egg goes in after the heat is off; break the yolk into the broth and the spice mellows.
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Springy pieces of octopus (nakji) turn up between soft curds of tofu. The egg goes in after the heat is off; break the yolk into the broth and the spice mellows.
Sea bream fillet is spread flat, layered with cucumber, carrot and oyster mushrooms, then rolled and steamed into a log of white fish wrapped around a core of color. The soy, vinegar and sesame oil sauce sits on the side rather than being cooked in, which keeps the mild bream tasting of itself.
Pork stock thickened lightly with tapioca starch carries crab meat, thick chewy banh canh noodles, and soft curds of egg in this southern Vietnamese soup. The broth should just coat the back of a spoon, and it keeps thickening after the heat is off, so a splash of hot stock at the end loosens it.
With only two thin sheets of fresh pasta around the ricotta and spinach, whether a raviolo survives the pot comes down to the seal. Pressing the top sheet from around the filling outward pushes trapped air to the edges, and the pasta edges need to stay moist while you work or they will not stick. The thin dough needs only three to four minutes in boiling water; any longer and it turns mushy.
This egg salad is wrapped in romaine leaves rather than bread, and only a tablespoon of mayonnaise goes in; Greek yogurt makes up the rest. Finely chopped celery gives it crunch, and Dijon mustard a little heat.
Fanned slices of avocado take the place of Canadian bacon, trading the salty meat layer for something soft and mild under the poached egg and hollandaise. The hollandaise depends on adding melted butter in a thin, slow stream so the emulsion holds. If it thickens too much, a teaspoon of warm water loosens it.
Egg beaten with a generous amount of dashi and steamed in individual cups sets into a soft, trembling custard that is savory, not sweet. It firms at the edges while the center still wobbles, with the broth flavor up front. Shrimp, sliced shiitake and ginkgo nuts sit at the bottom, and each spoonful turns up something different.
Soft milk bread wrapped around a generous ball of sweet red bean paste, anpan dates to 1874, when the Kimuraya bakery in Tokyo's Ginza paired Western bread with Japanese bean confectionery. The enriched dough with milk, butter, and egg bakes into a cottony crumb that pulls apart in strands. This version tops each bun with black sesame seeds.
Instead of stirring the pollock roe into the eggs, this version lays it in a single line before rolling, so each slice shows an orange stripe in the middle of the yellow. Bite in and the roe pops with salty little beads against the soft egg. Roe varies in saltiness, so there is no added salt, and low heat keeps the omelette from cracking.
Bacon started in a cold pan renders slowly, and that smoky fat replaces cooking oil for the whole fried rice. Well-fermented sour kimchi is fried until its edges brown, which rounds its sharp tang into something toastier. Pressing the rice against the pan builds a light crust on the bottom, the cue to turn off the heat. A runny-yolk fried egg goes on top and gets broken into the rice like a sauce.
Little salty grains of pollock roe are scattered through soft, creamy curds of egg. That even spread comes from scraping the roe out of its sac instead of slicing it. Half the butter goes in with the onion, and the other half melts in after the pan comes off the heat.
Baked in a fish-shaped mold, bungeoppang have a thin golden shell, a crisp tail made of batter alone, and red bean paste in the belly. The batter is kept a little thinner than pancake batter, thin enough to run into every corner of the tail and belly pattern. Keeping the bean paste in the center of the belly, away from the edges, stops it from leaking when the mold closes.
Cannoli are only worth eating while the fried shells are crisp, so the ricotta filling is piped in from both ends just before serving. Draining the ricotta in a sieve beforehand gives a richer filling, and the ends get a press of dark chocolate chips.
The dried pollock strips soak in cold water for only five minutes. Any longer and the savory flavor leaches out while the flesh goes soft. Toasted in sesame oil and simmered with bean sprouts for fifteen minutes, they turn the broth faintly milky, and a spoonful of doenjang makes a heavier version.
Plenty of finely chopped garlic chives go into the ground beef, so these bite-sized jeon come out flecked with green. Tofu squeezed dry makes them softer than meat alone, and the soy sauce and sesame oil seasoning still tastes clear once they have cooled.
The gochujang is stirred into the stock rather than fried in the oil, so there is no scorched edge and the broth comes out an even orange. Clams and shrimp layer their sea flavor over the anchovy stock.
Salted tiny shrimp (saeujeot) season the eggs instead of salt, and anchovy stock gives them savory depth. Cooked slowly in an earthenware pot (ttukbaegi) over low heat with a gentle stir through the middle, it comes out soft and puffed, nothing like the glassy-smooth custard of Japanese chawanmushi.
Soft crab balls rise through a red, tomato-sour broth in this Vietnamese noodle soup. In northern Vietnam the traditional version pounds whole paddy crabs and strains the liquid, which sets into a custard-like layer as it heats, while this recipe mixes crabmeat, ground pork and egg into a sticky paste instead. Everything rides on the balls holding together: the paste goes by the spoonful into broth that is barely moving and stays unstirred until the pieces firm up. Shrimp paste goes in a little at a time because it is strongly salty.
Inside each jumbo shell, the egg in the ricotta filling sets in the oven and holds the cheese and spinach together as one piece. A generous layer of tomato sauce on the bottom of the dish keeps the shells from drying underneath, and it also props up any shell that tore while boiling. Melted mozzarella and bubbling sauce do not prove the center is hot, so the thickest filling should read at least 74°C on a food thermometer before the dish comes out. A 3-minute stand afterward firms the filling before serving with sauce scooped from the bottom of the dish.
Korean potato salad leaves small lumps in the mash on purpose, putting soft potato and floury bits in the same bite. A little sugar in the mayonnaise gives it the sweet, creamy profile that separates it from Western potato salad, though it shares roots with Japanese potato salad. Diced ham is browned to render some fat, and salted, squeezed cucumber keeps the bowl from turning watery after chilling. An hour in the fridge lets the seasoning settle evenly. It goes on the table as a banchan side dish or between slices of bread as a sandwich filling.
Shreds of salt cod and matchstick potatoes fried crisp are bound together by eggs cooked only to soft, creamy curds. Soaking the cod in cold water for 24 to 48 hours, with several changes, means starting a day or two ahead. Even after soaking it keeps some salt, which makes tasting at the end more reliable than salting along the way. Taking the pan off the heat before the eggs fully set and letting residual heat finish them keeps the dish moist rather than dry. Black olives go alongside when you have them.
Buhari Hotel in Chennai is usually credited with introducing this South Indian fried chicken in 1965. Stories about the name point to a 65th menu item, among other theories, and none is settled. Thigh pieces marinated in yogurt, chili, garlic, and ginger get a sticky coat of egg and cornstarch and are fried twice, which gives a firm, deep-golden outside and a juicy inside. It spread across India as a bar snack with beer. Many restaurants finish it with fried curry leaves, but this version skips that step.
Five firm, cookie-like layers are stacked with dried-apple filling and then left in the refrigerator for 48 hours, during which they draw moisture from the apples and turn sliceable. Freshly baked layers are not supposed to look spongy. Boiled cider is reduced apple juice syrup, not vinegar or a fizzy drink.
There are only three fillings: dried gourd strips simmered in soy sauce and corn syrup, egg ribbons, and yellow pickled radish. The gourd turns sweet, salty and chewy, but any braising liquid left on it soaks the rice and laver once rolled. The heat goes up at the end until only a glaze, no liquid, is left in the pan.