Korean Pickled Green Onion
Two days in a soy and vinegar brine take the raw sting out of large green onions and leave only their mellow onion fragrance behind. The recipe leans on the white and pale green sections, which stay crisp after pickling.
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Two days in a soy and vinegar brine take the raw sting out of large green onions and leave only their mellow onion fragrance behind. The recipe leans on the white and pale green sections, which stay crisp after pickling.
Think of a pan of dakgalbi with udon added. Gochujang-marinated chicken thigh, cabbage and thin slices of sweet potato cook first, and the thick udon then takes on a heavy coat of that sauce.
There is no cream here and no added salt; the butter sauce is seasoned with doenjang, a Korean fermented soybean paste, and Parmesan. Most of the flavor comes from button mushrooms left alone in the pan until their edges brown.
Slicing cooked octopus thin and wide with the knife laid at a low angle shortens its tough fibers, so each piece chews easily. Cho-gochujang, gochujang sharpened with vinegar and sugar, coats it in a sour heat, while minari (Korean water dropwort) adds a fresh, herbal aroma and cucumber and onion bring crunch.
Hand-chopped parsley should still show as flecks with olive oil running between them, whereas a blender turns the sauce into a thick paste closer to pesto and loses that. Red wine vinegar, raw garlic and dried oregano bring sharpness and herb aroma to steak or grilled vegetables. Only well-dried leaves and tender stems make it into the bowl, since wet leaves thin the sauce and thick stems stay stringy. The garlic is minced finer than the parsley so no bite lands on a large raw piece. As the oil settles, a stir from the bottom each time brings up herbs and oil together.
The eggplant is cut into big cubes and browned on its cut faces before it goes anywhere near the coconut milk curry sauce. Raw eggplant would drink up oil and liquid and go limp; seared first, the cubes keep their corners after simmering and taste toasty where they hit the pan.
The kelp strips soak in cold water for 10 minutes to lose some salt, then get just 20 seconds in boiling water before going straight into a cold rinse. Tossed with seeded cucumber strips in a gochugaru, vinegar and soy dressing, they chill for at least 10 minutes before serving.
Ssukgat (crown daisy greens) goes in just long enough to wilt, so its bitter, herbal edge comes through clearly against the rich gochujang pork. The pork shoulder is seared in a smoking-hot pan for some browned flavor.
The name is Vietnamese for shaking beef, after the way the wok is shaken so cubes of sirloin sear on every side. It took shape in colonial-era Saigon, when Western cuts of beef arrived and Vietnamese cooks seasoned them their own way, here with oyster sauce, soy and garlic. Once the cubes have a dark crust, the onion softened earlier in butter goes back in, and lime is squeezed over just before serving.
Kimchi goes in at nearly the same weight as the pork, so the first thing you taste is its sourness. Short-cut garlic chives and pressed tofu fill out the mix, seasoned with soy sauce, garlic, and sesame oil.
Most of the toughness in chicken gizzards sits in the silver membrane, and peeling it off carefully is the main job of prep. The more thoroughly it comes off, the easier they are to chew after a fast sear. They come out browned and crisp outside, springy inside, with a little lemon squeezed over.
Beef shank marinated in fish sauce and garlic simmers for one to two hours with lemongrass and tomato paste, until the meat pulls apart and the broth turns red and lightly thick. It is often traced to southern Saigon kitchens where long French braising met Vietnamese aromatics, and street vendors in Ho Chi Minh City sell it from early morning. Some spoon it over rice; others dip a baguette.
Chonggak kimchi, made from small whole radishes with their greens, replaces the usual napa cabbage kimchi, so the stew has chunks of radish with real bite instead of soft leaves. Keeping the pot at a gentle bubble stops the radish from turning mushy.
Cod is lean and mild, so it gets a punchy sauce of soy, gochujang and chili flakes. The radish under it soaks that sauce up and ends up as good as the fish.
Long 6 to 7 cm lengths of green onion get a coat of gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) and anchovy fish sauce, and every bite carries the onion's sharpness together with salty, fermented depth. Glutinous rice paste holds that seasoning on the smooth onion surface. Without it, the paste would slide to the bottom of the container as the kimchi ripens. It goes beside pork belly or boiled pork, or folded into a lettuce wrap, and it is a good way to use up a bundle of older green onions.
Sesame paste, chili oil, soy, and vinegar sit in the bottom of the bowl, and once hot noodles are tossed through them, richness and direct heat come first while the tingle of Sichuan pepper arrives a beat later. Because that numbness builds fast, only half the ground peppercorn goes into the sauce, with the rest added after tasting. The ground pork is left untouched in the hot pan until it forms a brown crust, and that roasted flavor carries the whole sauce. Noodles that are not drained thoroughly thin the sauce until it no longer clings. Blanched bok choy adds a clean, green break from all the oil.
Duck legs braise on the bone for 90 minutes and are then pulled into shreds, which gives a coarser, meatier texture than a ground-meat ragu. The flavor starts with the sear: left alone in the pan rather than nudged around, the skin turns deep brown, and the red wine later dissolves that browned layer into the sauce. Wide pappardelle is the right shape to hold those strands. The ragu tastes deeper after a night in the fridge, which makes it easy to cook a day ahead and boil only the pasta on the day you serve it.
Spread across a hot pan and left alone for 1 to 2 minutes, the button mushrooms brown on the underside instead of turning watery. Garlic cooked first in the olive oil scents the pan, and the mushrooms and spinach pick up that aroma as they follow. Spinach goes into the same pan only long enough to wilt, so the leaves stay bright green and the mushrooms keep their bounce. Balsamic vinegar, added off the heat, brings sweetness and acidity, and grated Parmesan adds a salty finish. It comes together quickly, making it an easy side for dinner or a snack with wine.
Simmered gently in red wine, chicken pieces take on the wine's fruit and tannin, ending in a dark, concentrated sauce. The flavor foundation is laid at the start, when the chicken is browned in batches to leave a brown crust on the pan that the wine then dissolves. Bacon lardons, shallots, and garlic build on that base. Better wine gives a deeper sauce, and the dish improves if made a day ahead and reheated.
Coconut milk makes it look rich and creamy, but tamarind gives it a sharp sourness, and it eats lighter than it looks. Fishing households on Goa's west coast eat this curry with rice every day, and locally the pair is called xitt-kodi. It carries traces of the Portuguese colonial period along with Konkani cooking traditions, and Goans of every religion and class share it.
Peeled deodeok root, pounded five or six times with a mallet, flattens and opens along its fibers, then tears by hand into rough, ribbon-like strips. A thick gochujang and vinegar dressing is rubbed in. For bitterness, the strips soak in cold water for 5 minutes; taste one, and soak longer only if it is still sharp.
Pork shoulder simmered for about an hour in beef bone broth turns the soup milky and full-bodied. Salted shrimp (saeujeot) and salt come on the side so each person seasons their own bowl, which is how it is eaten in Busan.
The bell pepper is cut to roughly the size of the shrimp, so shrimp, broccoli and pepper land evenly in each bite. Seasoning is a tablespoon each of soy and oyster sauce, with five sliced garlic cloves fried in the oil first.
Octopus turns rubbery quickly under heat, so both the blanch and the grilling are kept short. A slice of ginger in the blanching water tames the fishy smell, and the glaze of gochujang, soy sauce, sugar, garlic, and sesame oil goes on in thin layers as the skewers cook.