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Cumin, turmeric, and chili cling to the potatoes and cauliflower as a dry coating instead of a sauce. A lid traps steam to cook the centers, then it comes off and the pan dries out, leaving the cauliflower edges lightly charred and the potatoes whole and fluffy. It is an everyday North Indian side, cooked everywhere from roadside dhabas in Punjab and Uttar Pradesh to home kitchens.
The batch makes 12 small half-moon pastries, each one sized for a single hand. The filling is ground beef cooked with onion and sweet pepper and seasoned with tomato paste and cumin. Spooning off the leftover fat and letting the filling cool completely keeps the inside of the baked pastry from turning greasy or weak.
It's fried twice, exactly like Korean sweet-and-sour pork, but with oyster mushrooms torn along the grain in place of the meat. The sweet-sour soy sauce comes on the side, so everyone decides for themselves whether to pour it over or dip.
Rousui comes from the Katsuura area of Tokushima, and the word is said to be a local form of zosui, Japanese rice porridge. Whole sweetfish are laid over rice, potato and eggplant as they simmer, and their aroma goes into the broth. Once cooked, the fish move to a plate to be picked clean of even the fine bones before the flesh returns to the pot. Broken up in the pot, those bones would be hard to find.
Thin-sliced beef brisket goes into a dry pan first, and the fat it renders cooks the garlic, onion and zucchini. If the brisket gives off plenty, the cooking oil can be cut back. It is a side for rice, or spooned over a hot bowl of it as a quick rice bowl.
The sweetness here comes from onion cooked slowly in butter, not from sugar, and cream and milk go in after it for the rice cakes to simmer in. With no gochujang or chili flakes at all, it tastes closer to a cream pasta than to red tteokbokki, and the parmesan stirred in at the end does the salting. The sauce thickens quickly as it cools.
Charring whole eggplant over an open flame until the skin turns completely black is what puts the smoke into this Punjabi mash. The flesh is mashed only roughly with a fork, so small pieces stay visible instead of becoming a smooth puree. Watery bharta usually comes from tomato that was not cooked down; the onion and tomato base should already be a dense paste before the eggplant is added.
The zucchini is cut into thick half-moons, so it keeps its shape in the soup and releases a little sweetness when you bite into it. For more of a kick, slice in a cheongyang chili, a sharp Korean green pepper.
Fine strands of beet and onion, held together by a light coat of potato starch and pancake mix, fry into a thin pancake where the red shreds stay visible. The beet's deep color makes browning hard to read, which sets it apart from other jeon. The cue for turning is the outer edge instead, where the wet batter should look dry.
Gochujang toasts in rendered pork fat before any broth goes in, and that spicy red oil gives the stew more body than simply boiling everything together. Zucchini half-moons simmer for 6 minutes, enough to take on seasoning without collapsing into mush.
Finely chopped salted shrimp loosened in water seasons this zucchini side dish instead of soy sauce, a habit handed down from country tables where salted shrimp was the main seasoning. Cooking it covered over medium-low heat lands somewhere between steaming and braising, and the zucchini softens without going mushy.
Thick half-moons of Korean zucchini stay crisp in soy brine, with cheongyang chili building heat at the back of each bite. The brine goes in at a hard boil, which sets the outside of each slice while the center keeps its snap, and it is worth trimming out a large, watery seed core first. Whole garlic cloves lose their raw bite in the jar and turn mellow and sweet. It is edible after 24 hours and tastes more even around day three. This is a refrigerator pickle, not a shelf-stable preserve.
Tamarind gives this fish broth its sour backbone, with flaked mackerel and rice noodles underneath and cucumber and mint on top. A finely blended paste of onion, garlic, and ginger forms the base and carries the chili heat. The mackerel is cooked and boned before it goes into the soup, so the bowl is easy to eat. Cucumber and mint add a cool, fresh finish to the hot, sour broth.
Wide lasagna sheets get stacked two or three times over with meat sauce, ricotta, and mozzarella, then baked under a layer of Parmesan. Ricotta softens the acidity of the tomato, while melting mozzarella glues the layers together. A 10-minute rest before cutting keeps the hot cheese from running and the stack from slumping. If the top browns too fast, a sheet of foil goes back over it. The whole dish can be assembled ahead and refrigerated, which makes it easy to bake for guests.
Smoked mackerel already carries smoke and oil, and it takes only blanched chwinamul greens, cooked lentils and a Dijon, cider vinegar and honey dressing to turn it into a full salad. Because the flesh flakes apart easily, it goes on last in large pieces.
Small beef meatballs are browned only on the outside, then finish cooking in an onion and tomato sauce with a little paprika. The sauce tastes fuller after a day, so it can be made ahead and served with bread or rice.
Most of the effort goes into a wet paste of onion, garlic, and ginger, fried slowly until the oil separates from the solids. Rushing it leaves a raw, harsh edge in the sauce. After that, chicken thighs simmer in coconut milk with turmeric, ground coriander, and lemongrass until the sauce turns bright yellow and thick enough to coat the meat. Ayam gulai belongs to the Padang food of West Sumatra's Minangkabau people, whose restaurants lay out many small plates before anyone orders and charge only for the ones you touch.
The center is pressed into a thin well rather than punched through like a bagel, and a spoonful of cooked onion goes into it. Bialys are never boiled, which leaves a thick, chewy rim around a thin middle. A very small amount of yeast and a 12-hour cold rise mean starting the day before. Raw onion would leak water, and a center that is not stretched thin puffs up in the oven and erases the well. Day-old bialys revive when split and toasted.
Pinto beans come out of a long, slow bake glazed in molasses, mustard and bacon, the sauce about as loose as thin syrup. Between the overnight soak, a first simmer on the stove and 4 hours 30 minutes to 5 hours in a covered pot in the oven, this is a start-in-the-morning dish. Hot water goes in a little at a time whenever the liquid runs low.
Bacon started in a cold pan renders slowly, and that smoky fat replaces cooking oil for the whole fried rice. Well-fermented sour kimchi is fried until its edges brown, which rounds its sharp tang into something toastier. Pressing the rice against the pan builds a light crust on the bottom, the cue to turn off the heat. A runny-yolk fried egg goes on top and gets broken into the rice like a sauce.
Canned tuna is already cooked, so the zucchini goes in first and the tuna joins only for the last 2 minutes. Added at the start, the tuna breaks into crumbs while the zucchini sheds a lot of water. Soup soy sauce and gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) go in sparingly, enough to tint the zucchini red without making any liquid.
Curry powder goes into the frying mix, so the batter is yellow before anything touches the oil, and it coats sweet potato, carrot and onion. With the spice already in the coating, no dipping sauce is needed. Carrot is the hardest of the three and gets sliced a little thinner.
Grated Korean pear does two jobs in this marinade: its enzymes soften the thin slices of sirloin, and its sugars meet the soy sauce to form the sweet, salty gloss that bulgogi is recognized by. Whether that gloss forms depends on the pan. When all the beef goes into the pan at once, the temperature drops and the meat stews in its own liquid, turning gray and chewy instead of browning at the edges. Onion and scallion marinate alongside the beef and soak up the same seasoning. Spoon it over rice or wrap it in lettuce.
The potatoes are baked whole in their skins, not boiled, and the flesh is scooped out and mashed into the soup, keeping the toasty taste of a baked potato. Some of the crisp bacon and cheddar is held back to go on top of each bowl with sliced scallions.